Ahmedabad – A Legacy of Empires

Ahmedabad (also called Amdavad, Ahmadabad or Ahemdavad), Gujarat’s major city, grows on you. Yes, during peak hours with traffic, noise, and air so thick you can chew it, the place can be a little overwhelming, but it’s well worth taking the time to get to know this remarkable city. It wins you over with its wealth of architecture – from centuries-old mosques and mausoleums to cutting-edge contemporary design. Then there’s the fascinating maze of an old quarter, excellent museums, fine restaurants, a bustling street-food scene and the tranquility of the Sabarmati Ashram (Gandhi’s former headquarters). It was the capital of Gujarat until the establishment of Gandhinagar, though a lot of people still believe the former to be the capital. The city has seven bridges which connect the historic city to the modern or the commercial part of the city. It is known for its handicrafts, theme-based restaurants and traditional cuisine. Ahmedabad city has witnessed the rule of different dynasties, right from Sultanate and Mughal rule to Maratha and British rule. Thus, the history of Ahmedabad is very rich.

The old city, on the east side of the Sabarmati River, used to be surrounded by a 10 km-long wall, of which little now remains except 15 formidable gates standing as forlorn islands amid swirling, cacophonous traffic. The new city on the west side of the river has wider streets, several major universities, and many middle-class neighborhoods.

A busy urban metropolis, an educational center, a textile hub and a city with a glorious past – Ahmedabad is a popular and one of the most significant places of Gujarat. As a city of full of history and heritage, Ahmedabad attracts a number of tourists with varied interests.

Popular places to see in Ahmedabad are a mix of magnificent temples, striking mosques, interesting museums, picturesque lakes, calming river-front and bits of Gandhi heritage.

Makar Sankranti (Uttarayan) is the best time to visit Ahmedabad. Kites of all shapes and sizes fill the skies. An International Kite Festival is being organized every year during Uttarayan time since 1989. The festival sees participation of kite flyers from India and abroad. During the festival, shops and streets are full of a variety of kites and manjhas (kite thread), giving the city a vibrant and colorful look. The day is colorful and the night is beautifully lit with tukals (flying lamp), lighting the entire city. Undhiyun, a mixed vegetable dish, is a specialty of Uttarayan.

Adalaj Stepwell or Rudabai Stepwell is a stepwell located in the village of Adalaj, close to Ahmedabad city and in Gandhinagar district in the Indian state of Gujarat. It was built in 1498 by Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty of Dandai Desh. It is a fine example of Indian architecture work.

It is believed that villagers would come everyday in the morning to fill water, offer prayers to the deities carved into the walls and interact with each other in the cool shade.

Adalaj Step-well – an intricately carved structure.

Adalaj Step-well – an intricately carved structure.

Adalaj Step-well – an intricately carved structure.

Adalaj Step-well – an intricately carved structure.

Adalaj Step-well – an intricately carved structure.

Sabarmati Riverfront is a waterfront being developed along the banks of Sabarmati river. Proposed in 1960s, the construction began in 2005. Since 2012, the waterfront is gradually opened to public as and when facilities are constructed and various facilities are actively under construction.

The project is a two-level promenade situated on both sides of the river where the lower level serves only pedestrians and cyclists while the upper level is capable of hosting numerous cultural and educational events, leisure activities, large public parks and plazas and a few areas for commercial and retail development.

The riverfront is featured in several Gujarati as well as Bollywood films.

The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque, popularly known as Sidi Saiyyid ni Jali locally, built in 1572 AD, is one of the most famous mosques of Ahmedabad.

The mosque is entirely arcuated and is famous for beautifully carved ten stone latticework windows (jalis) on the side and rear arches.

The two bays flanking the central aisle have reticulated stone slabs carved in designs of intertwined trees and foliage and a palm motif. This intricately carved lattice stone window is the Sidi Saiyyed Jali – The Tree of Life, the unofficial symbol of city of Ahmedabad and the inspiration for the design of the logo of the Indian Institute of Management Ahmedabad.

The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque.

The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque.

International Kite Festival 2018, held at the Sabarmati Riverfront.

International Kite Festival 2018, held at the Sabarmati Riverfront.

International Kite Festival 2018, held at the Sabarmati Riverfront.

International Kite Festival 2018, held at the Sabarmati Riverfront.

During Uttarayan, the entire city – with friends, families and relatives – is gathered on rooftops, with everyone engaged in kite flying frenzy.

The kite flying is by no means a friendly pass time that people indulge in. Some closely fought contests take place mid-air. Save your kite and bring the other person’s down is the name of the game. Which is why kites have to be bought in large numbers.

Even in the searing heat, residents have a picnic on the rooftops all through the day – with sunglasses, cold drinks, snacks, and what not!

After a hearty breakfast, everybody gets on the rooftops. Kite flying is a family event. Entire families gather together on the terraces, roofs or any other part of their house exposed to the sky.

Those not busy flying are busy in preparing the kites. Getting the tension on its structure right, is the key to the strength of the kite. The positioning of the holes to insert the thread will decide the flight angle and it’s trajectory. All of these technicalities make kite flying a team event.

No matter your age, if you’re in Ahmedabad during Uttarayan, you won’t be able to stop yourself from flying kites.

An expert prepares the kites. Another one rolls out the thread for the flier. The co-ordination between the flier and the one rolling out the thread is also very important.

Rolling-out and pulling-in of the thread has to go in sync with the kind of contest a kite has got into, in the skies.

The contests are very intensely fought. It requires a lot of concentration to not lose sight of your kite. Controlling the flight and motion of the kite so high up, is no easy task. The kite that flies the tallest & the longest is the star of the day!

All other activities come to a standstill as people take to flying kites on their terraces, roads and open spaces. Thousands of kites in different colors, shapes and sizes can be seen in the sky.

The entire atmosphere turns into a huge rooftop party with families and neighbors collectively flying kites, loud Bollywood music in the background and yummy Gujarati snacks.

 The serene blue sky with colorful kites look splendid and since morning to evening remains dotted with vivid splashes of color with kites in a variety of hues, shapes and sizes.

 Kite flying is taken to a whole new level when the night starts to fall. Tukkals or lighted paper lanterns are attached to the kite strings and flown throughout the night. The entire sky looks mesmerizing with beautiful lanterns lit up above, as the city of Ahmedabad soaks into the celebration.